Train – Unterwegs für immer

Alle Artikel mit dem Schlagwort “Train”

25. April 2011

5. Syria (17.4.11 – 27.4.11)

Syria

Finally arrived Syria. Was a bit worried in getting my visa at the border, especially since the movement against Assad jr. is getting more serious. But after many boring questions from the officials like ‘what you wanna do here’, some ignorance, 3 hours of waiting and 32 US $ I received the 15 day stamp in my passport. I guess they didn’t like the many visa stickers I had in my worn passport. Took them a while to realize I hadn’t been in Israel, one of their most hated enemies. On the other hand they could have also assumed I could be a journalist. Syrian visa fees differ quite a bit from nationality to nationality. Americans pay for instance 131 $, but wont get it at the border while Kiwis pay 111 US $. Russians for some reasons will get it for free, and there are quite a few Russians around enjoying the cheap prices of Syria.

Hotel Baron in Aleppo, the watering hole of T. E. Lawrence of Arabia

I did not take the direct route on my way south into Jordan. But a bus ride to the southern border near Daraa City (the center of the uprising) should cost not more than 10 €, and would take just 6 hours since the country is small enough. There is an exit fee of 500 Syrian Pounds = 8 € when you leave the country overland. There are ATM’s throughout the country where you can withdraw money. This surprised me since this is not the case for instance in Iran or Sudan – I mean countries which are alos considered to be part of an axis of evil (refering to the words of former US president George Bush jr.)!

Lawrence of Arabia

After 10 days I thought it would be wiser to leave Syria. Basically all Foreign Sate Departments had advised their fellow citizens to leave the country because a civil-war might occur! Anyway, I did not feel unsafe since most of the demonstrations took place mostly on Friday after the prayers. Only once in Dayr az Zwar, a town near the biblical Euphrates river, I had the unique experience of smelling teargas for the first time in my life! There were rumors that Assad could close the border to Jordan completely, which could have had happen any time – so I left because I didn’t want to take the risk of getting stuck.

Butchery in Aleppo

16. April 2011

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4. Turkey (12.4 – 17.4.11)

Turkey Route

In brief: The journey from Sofia to Istanbul by train and some bus (cause of some temporary disagreement between the two counties) and a lot of waiting has taken about 17 hours. The ticket was again €20. That adds up €104 from Lüneburg to Istanbul. Traveling time comes up to 55 hours.

I guess that is quite reasonable time to get your foot into Asia, so why always traveling in one of these non-sexy flying cigars! Visas at the border for EU citizens and most other nationalities are for – free including a serious bagging-check. Turkey is a no nonsense country, when it comes to drugs or weapons.

Just spend a day in Istanbul which is still one of the nicest cities in the world and a few days in Cappadocia one of my favorite places in Turkey. Cappadocia is basically situated in the center of Turkey. It’s relaxed, has cheap accommodation and interesting landscapes which makes it a good stopover, either on the overland route to Africa or to the Subcontinent. Transport in Turkey is very comfortable and efficient although not cheap. From Istanbul to the Syrian border near Anatkya (the main crossing) costs about €105 and it takes approx. 25 hours. You could do it also by train but it will be much slower. Turkey is not anymore a cheap country to travel – since they want to become a member of the EU. A liter of petrol is €1,80 and a bottle of beer in a pub €2,5! A cheap meal will cost you around €6 and a room €20 and more in Istanbul!

Pigeon valley, Cappadocia

15. April 2011

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3. Bulgaria (9.4. – 11.4.11)

Bulgaria

Bulgaria is I guess my favorite country on the Balkan. From the ones I visited it preserves the strongest communistic atmosphere – although joining the EU a few years ago. The train from Belgrade takes about 12 hours and costs 20 €. I paid the tall Serbian conductor 10 € and a can of beer on top of the original ticket and he organized me a clean bed in a compartment just for myself. Passport checks on both sides are easy going and happen inside the train. They will even wake you up, by knocking gently on your door. Arriving at the train station in Sofia is already something. With all these poor equipped socialist styled buffet places, the stray dogs and the notorious smell of urine – Sofia’s station seems not having changed much since the good old days! Be a bit careful when you change money at one of the countless currency exchange offices. Many of them will give you 20 % less than the official exchange rate (1 € – 1,95 Leva) since they advertise only the selling rate! It’s a bit of a scam, so you have to check a few. Bulgaria is cheap as hell. I had some interesting dish with loads of tomato, onion, cabbage and bread in one of these nice buffets at the railway station for less than 0,40 €! Sofia itself appears a bit run down or lets‘ say in state of repair – which I enjoy. Seems like the economy is not doing so well at the moment. Prices for apartment rents are far to high compare to the low salaries – complained my host while having breakfast the other morning. But Sofia contains also some fine architecture which reminded me of Paris – even I have never been there. There are a few Turkish styled mosques and even more Russian influenced cathedrals scattered around town which gives the place this distinctive Turkish-Russian-Europe Mix!

One of the major Landmarks of Sofia: Alexander Newski Cathedral build in 1882 in memory of Bulgaria's liberation from the Ottoman Empire by the Russians. Btw. designed by same architect who build the GUM shopping complex in Moscow!

15. April 2011

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2. Serbia (7.4. – 8.4.11)

Serbia

From Budapest a ticket with the rather slow train to Serbia costs 15 €. There are 3 trains per day and the journey takes about 12 hours. I chose the morning train to see at least a bit of the hinterland on my rushy little Balkan tour. Since Serbia is not a member in the EU I finally received again a little stamp in my passport. Arriving on train in Serbia s‘ Capital Belgrade in the late afternoon I saw for the first time in Europe slums. Not as spread out as in India of course, but in the way the little desperate shacks looked like – very similar to those in India. Made from trash and garbage. Had the feeling they were mostly occupied by Gypsies!

For just one day I had a glimpse into Belgrade and its‘ history. Beside some nice architecture from the heydays of Belgrade you will encounter a few mosques and the countries currency is named Dinar. This combined with the smell of the numerous kebab shops gives‘ you a bit of an oriental feeling. Prices are quite similar to those in Hungary. For some reason you will find pretty tasty slices of pizza on virtually every corner for just 0,75 €.

Putin seen in Beograd

Noticeable are also the many sex toy shops around downtown! More sex shops than Bakeries – and there are a whole lot of bakeries in Belgrade. BTW, Belgrade is also famous on the Balkan for it’s lively nightlife, which I missed since I left the place after a night – cause my hostel felt a bit like a refuge camp?!

Belgrade’s population same as in Hungary appearers very mixed with a rather darkish influence. The white tall Serbians stand out of the crowd and I got the feeling they want to. I guess I never have seen so many tall woman in my life!